For the last 20 years I have been desperately searching for the best new bouldering I can find. Often times that pursuit has lead me across the country: Alaska, Montana, Utah, even North Dakota. In 2010, I was tipped off to some bouldering outside of Roy, NM and I immediately went down to check it out.
Over the next 6 years I went down to the area about 20 times a year, with a small crew of like-minded developers. We were asked not to talk publicly about it and we didn’t, and for 6 years we had the place to ourselves. These moments before the flood gates open are always what I search for. We established many new classics: One Eyed Clown, Bear Toss, ROYGBIV, True Grit, Roybot, Faust, the list goes on and on. It was a special time for myself and a few close friends.
In 2016 a guidebook somewhat suddenly appeared and all bets were off. Roy was good, and it was easy to access. The guidebook (and the constant Instagram posts) have since changed the landscape there forever. It’s easy to feel cynical about the changes that have happened but they seem inevitable in the age of information. With more people comes more problems. Ultimately, the guidebook to Roy is spurring a positive and necessary relationship with local climbers and the FS. It will prompt more money coming into the town of Roy. It will help provide new infrastructure for the climbers who do go there. It may encourage some to donate to the @accessfund The guidebook also helps provide good ethics for visiting climbers, helps give the rangers a platform to speak out, as well as instructions on where to camp and where to park, and ultimately moves the area forward in a responsible way. The guidebook in Roy might have mitigated a disaster.
Continued in comments below... one of my favorite FAs in Roy, Bear Toss V11 circa 2011 @sharpendpublishing#bouldering#alpineboulderingguide#climbing
„A rest before the crux on the 5th pitch (5.13a) on Time for Living on the Outrage Wall in Portrero Chico. The bolts were not awe inspiring to say the least, but they caught my big whips at the end while I launched into a full on dyno high up on the Outrage Wall. I’m coming back for this one FOR SURE. AHHH THE PSYCH IS SO HIGH. 📸 @sav.cummins“
Colgando de la cuerda... eso que te une a tu compañero de cordada, que siempre está ahí para alentarte en el momento que lo necesitas, quién te cuida desde que salís del suelo hasta que volves a tocarlo
✨Kasia Ekwińska ⭐️ Only For Women bouldering competition 💪🏻 at Obiekto bouldering gym 🙌, Warsaw, Poland 🇵🇱 📸 Photo: Szymon Aksienionek @szymonaksienionek 🔍 Check my website for more photos: http://szymonaksienionek.com
Super fun first time outdoor bouldering with @jacobpenner and @jackhodasy !! I’m usually climbing on a rope but this bouldering business might need another go!! Amazing spring day at the always beautiful Niagara Glen.
Here I am on Flywall, V1 highball. It’s easier and less scary than it looks!! #bouldering
Uma das movimentações mais completas é o deslocamento em costão rochoso.
Tenho esse costume no Atlântico e aqui no Pacífico a experiência tbm é incrível.
A movimentação generalista te prepara pra tudo. Experimente!
Movimente-se mais. Treine menos.
Isso é Corrida Ancestral!
sent torque spanner (v8)!!! 🤪 stoke is over 9000 right now. i use a wacky beta to start, locking in my entire leg with a calf-toe cam(??). then it's switching between foot jams to pull yourself out of the crack, to setup for a gym-like dyno at the end. great fun!
this culminated over 4 days of obsessive projecting. i recorded hundreds of attempts and would do frame-by-frame comparisons to figure out the exact body positioning that i needed. it was like some espn analysis shit. my body is wrecked, throwing myself at the rock, doing the same moves over and over again. but i'm feeling strong and super stoked!